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A Tour of Duty in North Sulawesi
by Adam J. Fenton
(continued from Minahasa Page)
Before Gorontalo became a separate
province, it was the westernmost regency
of North Sulawesi. However, that honour
now goes to Bolaang Mongondow. It
takes around five hours to drive from
Manado to Kotamobagu the administrative
capital. You can take the coastal road via
Inobonto or the winding mountain road
via Modoinding, either way the scenery
is fantastic.
Geographically dominating the
regency, and forming its principle
attraction is the Bogani Nani Wartabone
National Park (formerly known as
Dumoga Bone). It is here in this huge
sprawling park of 300,000 hectares that
you may encounter, with patience, some
of Sulawesi’s fascinating endemic wildlife.
Volumes can and have been written about
Sulawesi’s strange and unique species of
wildlife. Most notable of which are the
peculiar mammals such as the babirusa
or "pigdeer" which is found nowhere else
in the world, and is distinguished by its
horn-like tusks which grow upward from
the top jaw piercing the layer of skin and
curl around in front of the eyes. It’s now
unfortunately uncommon to see a wild
babirusa, and takes, we’re told, at least
one or two weeks in the forest to track
one down. Likewise, the Maleo bird, a
fowl which lays an egg eight times the
size of a chicken’s egg into warm volcanic
soils to incubate it, is also rarely seen
near here, but there are two major nesting
sites near Tambun and Tumokang where
you can see maleos and their chicks up
close. Commonly seen here are the redknobbed
hornbill a species peculiar to
Sulawesi, and the Tarsius Spectrum, the
world’s smallest primate, a gremlin-like
creature about the size of a softball with
huge eyes and ears who comes out at
dusk to feed on insects.
In 1985, over 200 scientists involved
the Wallacea project, the largest
entomological expedition ever mounted,
had their basecamp and laboratory at the
park headquarters at Toraut near the
village of Doloduo, about 50 km west of
Kotamobagu. Today visitors can use these
facilities with double rooms for only a
nominal sum per night. It’s pretty quiet
here, but the food is good, and you can
do as much hiking in the forest as you
want. The attendants here will arrange
for guides, and there are many day-long
excursions including one to a waterfall.
On your way back to Manado, you
may want to test your mettle with an
ascent of magnificent Gunung Ambang.
At a moderate height of 1100 metres it
takes a couple of hours at a leisurely pace
reach the crater where you can explore
the steaming fumeroles and the sulfurous
moonlike environment.
A short drive from Ambang are lakes
Tondok and Mooat, both of which are
picturesque and easily accessible as the
road runs right past them and they make
delightful place to stop for lunch or a
refreshing snack.
 Continue Reading: Sangihe-Talaud
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It's off the beaten track but the Mount Ambang Wildlife Reserve near Kotamobagu is a great place to see and hear some
of North Sulawesi's weird and wonderful wildlife.
The car engine coughs and splutters up the steep road winding out of the dusty market-town of Kotamobagu (the local
coffee's a specialty). Leaving behind the bendis (horse and carts) wobbling around town to be chased by angry,
horn tooting bright blue minibuses, we climb and climb and climb.
The heat and dust is swapped for a refreshing breeze and wafts of eastern spice - clove and cinnamon trees spot the
landscape - then the car plunges into rainforest. Deep, forest clad gorges line the road until, finally, the hairpin
bends easy, stomachs settle, heartbeats subside and you can take a look around. We've arrived in Singsingon, the
easiest access point to the reserve.
Stepping out of the car it feels cool and the fields of onions, corn and potatoes lend a familiar feel to a stunning
landscape. Away in the distance is the smoking Soputan volcano, whilst rising up from the flat fields around the village
are the mountains of Ambang.
Calling in at local forest warden Yus's house, to arrange a guide and to make sure there's some of that coffee waiting
for us when we get back, we set off.
The nice thing about Ambang is there are no steep hills to climb. The footpath to the reserve winds gently uphill, passing
through tidy agricultural plots, and the local farmers stop hoeing to stare, smile, and wave. An hour or so brings you
into the forest, and the weird noises start.
First there's the chatter and drone of cicadas and crickets. Then a telephone rings, errr….actually it's a hair-crested drongo
- crazy noise, crazy name, crazy bird. At last - some wildlife!
Next a brass band starts playing. It's time to look for the wonderful, trumpeting malia, a large, yellow, thrush-like bird.
Groups of malia, announce their presence long before becoming visible and their manic calls and energetic actions attract
many other species.
Accompanying the brass band is the big bass boom of a hornbill; a whoosh of wings and a pair of these huge fruit chomping
monsters is looking down on us from a tall fig tree.
Walking through the reserve along wide, but usually muddy footpaths, can bring encounters with all manner of animals.
Birds are easiest to see, but there's always a chance of bumping into some crested black macaques, big black monkeys
that are unique to north Sulawesi, or even - if you're really lucky - some rarer beasts such as an anoa (a miniature
forest-living cow).
Ambang is home to some really rare species, and is a mecca for the wildlife enthusiast. But much of the time things
are difficult to see. Remember to be patient, take binoculars, and stick close to your guide - he'll have eyes like
a hawk.
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Even if you miss the furry and feathered guys, and chances are they'll run or fly away just as you spot them (they
always do), just enjoy the hike, the forest, the smells, and trying to work out where some of those noises are coming
from. The moss and orchid drenched trees, towering ferns, and dizzyingly deep drops to crystal-clear mountain streams -
yes, it's safe to drink - washed in the afternoon sunlight.
Stumbling out onto the Singsingon road again, it's a few strides before our legs stop shaking and get used to the flat.
Back to Yus's for that coffee, a great selection of local cakes of course, and hoards of noisy, nosy, happy kids. Then
down the road again, descending into the dust and warmth of Kota. Bendis are snoozing, even the minibuses have chilled
out.
Now, what was the telephone bird again?
The reserve is under the administration of the National Park office in Kotamobagu and visitors must obtain permits
from here; the office is out of town in Mongkonai on Jalan AKD, telephone 0434-22548. Kotamobagu is a four-hour drive
from Manado. Many of the local travel agencies in Manado could arrange an Ambang trip.
People visiting Ambang will have to be accompanied by a ranger - not only is this advisable given the area's remoteness,
but rangers can also assist with language and organizing food/accommodation close to the site. Daily rates are usually
between US$3 and US$5. Check at the park office.
The paths are not too steep, but visitors will probably be walking an 8 km round trip so it's not for the faint hearted.
Wear stout shoes, long trousers and long shirts to combat thorns and nettles. Take a raincoat, better still an umbrella,
some water and snacks, and insect repellant.
Source:
"What's Happening?"
Manado Safari Tours Newsletter
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Hornbill at Bogani Nani Wartabone National Park
Bolaang Mongondow
Fast Facts
Bolaang Mongondow covers the highlands and lowlands between Minahasa and Gorontalo. The total area covers 835,404 ha, with a population of 411,086 (1996).
The population constitutes a mixture of various Indonesian ethnic groups, such as Minahasans, Balinese, Gorontalo, Sangihe, Bugis and Javanese.
Most people live on the narrow (3-5 km wide) northern coastal strip, along which runs the trans-Sulawesi highway, and the even narrower southern coast strip.
Both north and south coast are rainfed, with field crops in the north and coconut in the south, as the main crops. The central lowland, the east
of the forest reserve, is irrigated and is continuously cropped with rice.
Highlights
LAKE MOOAT. This tranquil lake, about 23 km from Kotamobagu, is situated in the highlands, 900 m above sea level, is surrounded by dense forest with abundant
bird and animal life.
MOLOSING INDAH BEACH. This beach is 50 km from Kotamobagu, offshore from Motabang village on the tiny island of Molosing. This tranquil tropical island is
pleasant for swimming, fishing, boating, as well as snorkeling. There is basic accommodation and restaurants.
MOUNT AMBANG. This impressive mountain is reached by passing through the coffee plantations between Modayag and Lake Mooat and is 27 km from Kotamobagu.
This nature reserve offers a crater lake, unexplored forest and hot mud pools.
BOGANI NANI WARTABONE (DUMOGA BONE) NATIONAL PARK. The National Park, 260 km from Manado, has a land mass of 193,600 ha, altitudes of 200 - 1,968 m and
stretches from Dumoga in Bolaang Mongondow to Bone in Gorontalo. Its mountainous terrain and dense vegetation make it an ideal home for maleo birds, anoas, horn-bills,
wild pigs, tarsius spectrum and giant fruit bats. Giant fruit bats were a new species discovered in 1992.
The major reason for establishing this area as a National Park was to protect the watershed and stop deforestation. The World Bank has lent its support to this program.
Much of the forest is at comparatively low attitudes and correspondingly rich in fruit bearing plants and trees, such as wild durians and wild nutmeg.
The park can be reached in 4-5 hours drive from Manado. The main entrance is at Toraut, which also functions as a research station with limited accommodation.
KOTAMOBAGU. The capital of the Bolaang Mongondow regency is Kotamobagu, 165 kilometers away from Manado.
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Babirusa or "pigdeer"
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