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A Tour of Duty in North Sulawesi
by Adam J. Fenton
(continued from Sangihe Talaud Page)
The port town of Bitung with its fine
natural harbour protected by the adjacent
island of Lembeh is the centre for shipbuilding
and maintenance as well as
commercial fishing. Also, since the
harbour in Manado silted up, large ships
now all call into Bitung, including some
of the magnificent passenger cruise-liners.
The town itself has a quaint provincial
charm and is distinguished by its 12m
replica of the Eiffel Tower at one of the
roundabout intersections leading into
town. Apparently the unusual monument
was built by a previous mayor who had
studied in Paris in his earlier years, and
was built as a testament of his love for
the "City of Lights".
Take a boat ride across and down
the Lembeh Strait and you’ll come across
an equally odd and intriguing
monument; the Trikora Monument.
Constructed in the 70s this mammoth
structure towering some 100 meters into
the sky was built to celebrate the success
of the Indonesian military’s campaign in
Irian Jaya. With an enormous Monaslike
tower flanked by two annexes which
look something like robotic flowers in
bloom, the inside wall which encircles
the base of the monument shows scenes
of recruiting soldiers and then sending
them off to war.
Attached to the monument has been
mounted an old DC3 aircraft that was
used in the military campaign. A ladder
on one side provides access inside where
you can go and sit in the cockpit and
live out your fantasy of being a fighter
pilot – bring your own sound effects.
This is a popular hangout for local kids.
You can’t mention Bitung and
Lembeh without mentioning the diving
in Lembeh Strait. Relatively unknown
compared to Bunaken, Lembeh has fast
developed a reputation as being the place
for muck. That may sound disgusting
but allow me to explain. The sheltered
straits form a kind of bottleneck in the
surrounding sea, which has led to an
abundance of plankton. This siltybottomed
strait therefore doesn’t have
the same spectacular coral walls of
Bunaken but it does mean that the
conditions are just right for serious divers
to see a menagery of weird and wonderful
creatures up close that they rarely, if ever,
get to see anywhere else. Creatures with
weird descriptive names that conjure up
all sorts of strange images are common
here – the ornate ghost pipefish, neon
coloured nudibranchs (a kind of seaslug),
mimic octopuses and flamboyant
cuttlefish, as well as the diminutive
pygmy seahorse and the aptly named
frogfish can all be seen hiding among
the crevices of the Lembeh Strait. Several
dive resorts have been built here and
offers easy, direct access to Lembeh,
without the need for the long boat ride
from Manado for day-trippers.
 Continue Reading: Manado
Anemone fish, © A. & B. Trutnau
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Pygmy Seahorse, © A. & B. Trutnau
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The reputation of Lembeh Strait as a mecca for divers interested in odd and rare macro fauna
continues to grow. Visitors coming during different times of the year are treated to a variety
of seasonal deslights. June brings a mixed blessing, being when the south-east monsoon winds
begin. While these winds don't effect the generally placid waters on the Bunaken side of
North Sulawesi, these winds that appear daily at midmorning on the Bitung side can bring choppy
waters at unprotected dive sites in the strait until September when the monsoon abates until
the next year. But on the positive side there is much to reward intrepid divers beneath the
surface. One of the most sought-after macro subjects, ornate ghost pipefish, move into the
shallows to breed, exhibiting a rainbow of colour combinations to delight those who find them
hiding amongst the arms of feather stars or alongside sea fans.
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There seems to be an increase in the variety and numbers of nudibranchs on show as well. In addition
to all that colour, certain cephalopods, including any of the four species of
mimic octopus as well as the captivating flamboyant cuttlefish can be found shortly following
their spring breeding cycle, prowling the black sand bottom. These critters are just some of the parade of fascinating creatures that are commonly encountered
in Lembeh, alluring divers from all over the globe who wish to accumulate "firsts"
or for underwater photographers who want to fill their viewfinders with what is considered rare elsewhere.
Bruce Moore
Source:
"What's Happening?"
Manado Safari Tours Newsletter
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Objective: Get to Tangkoko-Duasudara Nature Reserve, have a great rainforest experience,
and return with all your belongings and body parts intact.
Step one: Get on an airplane. Go past China, Japan, and head south. Follow the cluster of
islands along the South China Sea going past Sumatra and Borneo, leaving behind orangutans and
tigers until you hit the Makassar Strait. If you've hit the Moluccan islands, you've gone too far:
lose 10 points. Past the Makassar Strait is a Gumby-shaped island called Sulawesi. Head for the
northwestern tip and land in the city of Manado. Retrieval of all luggage intact: 10 points.
Step two: From Manado, go northeast leaving behind the pack of crazy exhaust fume-drunk microlet
(public blue vans) drivers and the frequent spirited calls of 'meeester' (regardless of gender).
After 100 'meester's, every 'meester' thereafter: collect 0.1 point. As you descend on the hill
that overlooks the bay of Bitung and Lembeh island, proceed slowly until you hit the village of
Girian, and then turn left. From Girian, swerve car wildly to avoid crushing the surly dogs
of Duasudara and Danowodu. No accidents: 5 points. Keep your spinal column intact by wearing
full safety gear. If gear is not available, hold on tightly and pray a lot. Play it safe and
pray to all the gods. All body parts in place: 2 points.
Now you've arrived at Tangkoko-Duasudara Nature Reserve. There are few places in the world where
such a wide variety of habitats, plants, and animals are crammed into one small forest
(8,890 hectares or 21,990 acres). Thus far, scientists have documented 26 mammal, 178 bird,
15 reptile, and over 200 plant species that occur at Tangkoko.
Sulawesi has one of the highest levels of species endemism in the world, meaning many of these
species are unique to Sulawesi. Of the known Sulawesi fauna, 62% mammal, 27% bird, 32% reptile
and 76% amphibian species are found only in Sulawesi. The mammal species hits an extraordinary 98%
if bats are not included. In comparison, endemism on the neighboring islands Borneo and Sumatra for
mammals is a fifth, and birds less than a quarter of the percentage of endemics in Sulawesi.
Step three: Once you're at Tangkoko, check into one of the several losmen (home-stays)
at Batuputih village. Score a cold beer at your losmen: 1 point. If you arrive mid-day, it's
better to rest up and wait until late afternoon to see tarsiers and other nocturnal critters.
There are several publications which may be helpful during your at Tangkoko: A Pocket Field
Guide to Tangkoko-Duasudara Nature Reserve by R. Lee, J. Riley, and L. Pesik; and A Natural
History of North Sulawesi by M. Kinnaird. Both are available at local shops, and all proceeds
go toward conservation efforts.
Before you go into the forest, remember to bring your insect repellent. There are tiny mites called
gonone which cause great itching and embarrassment. They drill deep and lay their eggs in sensitive
body areas including genitals and armpits. Lest you appear like a sexual deviant or someone who avoids
baths, spray insect repellents all over your socks, pants, shirt, under your belt, and crotch area.
No gonone bites for the entire trip: 2 points.
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Step four: Check in with the guards at Post 1 where you will pay Rp. 75,000 including the guide fee.
The walk to the forest is about 2 km. There, you will find the Spectral Tarsier (Tarsius spectrum), a tiny
(head and body length measuring approximately 10 cm and weighing little over 100 g) endemic primate so called
because of their elongated tarsal region allowing their great leaping ability to go after insects and small
reptiles. Tarsier encounter: 5 points. In your walk along the beach trail, you may also encounter numerous
fluttering fruit bats like the Sulawesi Rousette (Rousettus celebensis) and Lesser Dog-faced Fruit Bat
(Cynopterus brachyotis).
Step five: Now you are ready for your morning walk. Make sure to get up early (latest 6 am) and pack
well (insect spray, water, snacks, binoculars). The morning walk will put you face to face with the Crested
Black Macaque (Macaca nigra), the most conspicuous mammal species in the reserve. As the name suggests, it
is entirely black except for their pink heart-shaped bums. You may also see a Bear Cuscus (Ailurops ursinus),
one of the two marsupial species in the forest, hanging by its long prehensile (i.e., grasping) tail in the
canopy feeding on fruits and leaves.
You should also encounter a huge variety of birds in your morning walk. You may see colorful birds such as
the Sulawesi Dwarf Hornbill (Penelopedes exarhatus), Blue-headed Wood Kingfisher (Acnoides monarchus),
Ornate Lorikeet (Trichoglossus ornatus), Blue-backed Parrot (Tanygnathus sumatranus), Green Imperial
Pigeon (Ducula aenea) and White Imperial Pigeon (Ducula luctuosa).
Word of warning. If you see researchers, avoid a frothing-mouthed screaming tirade about 'pollution of data'
by quietly walking away.
If you are lucky, you may come upon macaques, hornbills, and other fruit-eating birds all feeding in one tree.
Researchers from the Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS) have shown that one of the reasons why there are
so many hornbills and other fruit-eating birds, and macaques packed into such a small forest is lies in the
high density of fig trees that grow there. With some fig trees producing up to a million sweet fruits at
a time, visiting a fruiting fig tree is like visiting a candy store. Plus, these figs are full of calcium,
an essential nutrient for reproduction and physical growth. Fig-tritious!
Throughout your stay at Batuputih and walks into the forest, please be a responsible tourist. Stick to the
trails and do not throw trash in the forest. If your guide acts irresponsibly, gently ask the guide to
behave more responsibly. If the problem persists, please report this to the head of the park at Post 1
or the head of the Nature Conservation section in Manado (Tel. 862688).
Step six: Now, add up your score. Before getting in the car, drink as many bottles of beer as
specified by your score. This will numb you for the banging that you will endure on your trip back to
Manado. Selamat jalan!
Dr. Robert J. Lee
Dr. Lee is a wildlife ecologist and Country Director for the Wildlife Conservation Society Indonesia Program.
Source:
"What's Happening?"
Manado Safari Tours Newsletter
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The Gremlin-like Tarsius Spectrum is
one of North Sulawesi's most famous
wild inhabitants
Bitung & Lembeh Strait
Fast Facts
The city of Bitung is located approximately 47 km from Manado. Its land mass covers a total area of 30,400 ha with a population of
118,633 people (1996). Bitung is a signifigant commercial port in Eastern Indonesia and as well a tourist gateway. The port is well
equipped with a pier capable of accomodating modern cruise ships. A major asset for Bitung is the Lembeh Strait and Lembeh Island
which acts as a natural shield protecting Bitung from wind and rough seas.
Highlights
LEMBEH STRAIT. Lembeh Strait is a 12 km long stretch of water separating Lembeh Island and the mainland. Bitung is
actually the half way point along the shores of Lembeh Strait. This pristine section of water in North Sulawesi is home
to many unique sea animals which include the pygmy seahorse, mimic octopus, ghost pipefish, as well as other larger species.
It is a fantastic dive area for underwater photographers and the diversity of smaller creatures ensures many memorable
photo opportunities.
There are several undeveloped beaches on the shoreline of Lembeh Strait which are excellent for swimming and snorkelling.
JAPANESE MONUMENT. As Bitung played an important role in WW II as a home base for the Japanese Forces, it became
the last resting place of their soldiers who died during the War. To commemorate this time in history and the men who died,
the Japanese and North Sulawesi Governments constructed this monument located at Manembo, 7 km from Bitung center.
TRIKORA MONUMENT. Is situated on a bluff at Lembeh Island Beach, the DC3 monument and park offers a nice opportunity
to observe ships going by as well as being a gathering place on Sundays and holidays. Reachable by motorized outrigger.
TANGKOKO BATUANGUS NATURE RESERVE. Located at the foot of Dua Saudara Mountain, the area is comprised of rolling
hills and valleys with a variety of hardwood trees and unusual plant life.
The animal life is also quite varied, and one can often view Tarsius Spectrum (world's smallest primate), black tailless
monkeys, Maleo Birds, wild pigs and kuskus (marsupial family). Tangkoko Batuangus Reserve offers a suitable protective
environment to help prevent these animals from becoming extinct. Tangkoko is located in the northern sector of Bitung,
and comprises an area of 3,196 Ha, and takes about 1.5 -2.5 hours to reach from Bitung or Manado, respectively.
Please note that the road to Tangkoko is somewhat difficult and visitors are recommended to visit with a local
tour operators to ensure a safe journey and to take advantage of an experienced guide who can assist in spotting the
wildlife. Losmen (simple guesthouses) are available for overnight stays.
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