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Manado

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	A Tour of Duty in North Sulawesi by Adam J. Fenton (continued from Bitung & Lembeh Strait) Okay so we know about Bunaken and its startling biodiversity. But what else does the capital city Manado have to offer? As Wallace pointed out, it is a "pretty" city with some of the most spectacular sunsets over the perfect cone of Manado Tua island to be seen anywhere in the country. The city itself boasts a Provincial Museum. For a nominal entry fee you can stroll around the museum’s three floors of exhibits, which display traditional costumes, and modes of transport like the bendi a small horse trap which is still in use in many places. There is a good collection of ceramics, from China, Japan and Europe as well as some furniture that was used by national heroes during the independence struggle. A display of weapons includes some Javanese krisses, and an excellent example of a Portuguese helmet with its distinctive peaked shape like the hull of a boat. If you’re lucky you might even catch an impromptu performance on the museum’s set of kolintang a type of wooden xylophone orchestra, which sounds truly divine when accompanied by some of the famous North Sulawesi singing voices. The city also has a good number of hotels and restuarants as well as bars and karaoke lounges, which makes it the only option in the province for any kind of nightlife. Places seem to open and close fairly regularly so try to get some local knowledge before setting out for a night on the town. A string of seafood restaurants and stalls along the waterfront set up in the evening, offering visitors a taste of the fiery Minahasan cuisine. If you like it hot sample the Ikan Tude (pronounced "tooday"), a traditional fish recipe with an abundance of chilli – but remember you were warned! Manado has also become the focal point of Minahasan culture, and while it seems to be fading somewhat, with some luck and persistence you may be able to witness a performance of either of the two main traditional dances. The most engaging is certainly the Cakalele or war dance. Derived from the words for "fight" and "shout" this pretty much describes the Cakalele. Wide-eyed warriors decked out in blood red costumes with a profusion of hornbill beaks and feathers arranged on their heads gives them a frightful appearance as they scream and engage each other in mock fighting. Originally designed to deter invaders, the dance is now used to welcome visitors. The other more sedate performance is the Maengket. With colourfully attired singers in bright pinks, greens and yellows, the full harmonies of the Maengket are as much a joy to hear as they are to see as the dancers continuously move in carefully choreographed unison. This dance once had connections with the rice harvests and building of new houses but seems to be performed now only for the benefit of visitors. Finally, for sighteeing and perhaps a bit of retail therapy, check out the Chinatown disrict. On Jl Panjaitan you’ll find the Ban Hian Kiong Buddhist Confucian temple. Originally constructed in the early part of the 19th century, the temple had to be rebuilt in the 70s following some severe vandalism, which partially destroyed the structure. Now though it is functioning as a place of community worship and its colourfully decorated walls also contain a selection of Portuguese and Dutch artifacts including an ancient set of cannon. There you have it, a diversified tour of the best of North Sulawesi’s non-diving culture and attractions. There is much more to this extraordinary province than just those amazing sights to be found under the surface of the water. Spectacular scenery, colourful culture, brilliant beaches, diverse diving and awesome adventure – all of these and more await you in North Sulawesi – so go on, take the plunge! One of Manado's most famous landmarks is fast disappearing, so if you hope to experience it, you'd better be quick! We are referring to the "Boulevard", the 3,5 kilometers which at one time hedged the waterfront and was a favorite gathering point at dusk for locals and tourists alike. Tragically, the fantastic view from this stretch of road is vanishing behind a plain of soil and rocks as reclamation upon reclamation extends further and further out to the sea. The "promenade" down the Boulevard is a fairly hot affair if tackled during the heat of the day, so we would recommend a late afternoon start which will give you a chance to stop in at any number of eating and watering holes along the way. If you start at the harbor or the area behind Jumbo Store, you can maintain a steady pace straight down the road. If you feel like a snack or a shake or a beer to set you on the way, the Sunset Cafe is a great place to start. Lovers of Seafood, Indonesian and Chinese food won't be disappointed with the parade of restaurants, which extend down the length of the Boulevard. Some of the more well known establishments include: Pondok Hijau, Bahari, Samudra and Wisata Bahari. For those venturing out later at night and wishing to include liquid refreshments and live music, then the Boulevard Bar, Ocean Bar, and Album are some of the night spots frequented. The newly opened "Hooks" Bar and Restaurant is one of the more striking landmarks on the Boulevard (you can't miss the Noah's Arc type boat balanced on the second floor). They have successfully combined tasty food with a bar and band which ensures a great night out. It is also one of the few places you can enjoy a drink outside and marvel at the sunset over Manado Bay. If you have a cast iron stomach and a strong resistance to tummy troubles, then the braver amongst you could "go local" and try the fare at any of the small roadside food stalls (warungs) or hand pushed carts (kaki lima). The fried bananas or roasted corn on the cob could be the safest bets. But I do warn you that eating "from the roadside" is totally at your own discretion (the writer accepts no responsibility for any bouts of food poisoning). By late afternoon you will be able to enjoy many of the impromptu games of football played out on the reclamations around the middle of the Boulevard. Or simply find a quiet spot on the wall and enjoy watching the sun slink into the sea. This could however be easier said than done and be prepared for the "Hello Mister" brigades. Tired and hungry you may find yourself winding up at the Bahu Mall at the southern end of the Boulevard, where you can refresh yourself at the string of small eateries behind the row of shops aptly named Bay Street Cafe. I hope you do find some time to enjoy the last vestiges of this Manado landmark, and perhaps if you return in the future you'll be saying, "I remember when...." Source: "What's Happening?" Manado Safari Tours Newsletter		Bang Hian Kong Buddhist Confucian temple, Manado Manado Fast Facts It is estimated that Manado was inhabited in the 16th century and was called "Wenang". Later, in 1623 the name was changed to "Manado". Influenced by the foreign occupation, the culture reflects the outside influence. Urbanization of the people from Sangihe Talaud, Bolaang Mongondow, Gorontalo and Minahasa has resulted in a diverse population and culture. Manado's population is 342,264 people (1996). Highlights BAN HIN KIONG TEMPLE. This 19th century temple, the oldest in east Indonesia, is the worship place of Chinese Buddhist believers. The temple is located on Jl. Panjaitan in the center of the city. During Toa Peh Kong each February, a traditional Chinese parade dating from the 14th century is held. WOLTER MONGINSIDI & PIERRE TENDEAN MONUMENT. A monument to commemorate the meritorious young men from North Sulawesi, Wolter Monginsidi and Pierre Tendean. Wolter Monginsidi died during the struggle of Indonesian Independence and Pierre Tendean died in the so-called "communist rebellion" on September 30, 1965. Situated on the waterfront, facing the Bay of Manado, it is usually crowded with people who want to relax while enjoying the beautiful panoramic view of the bay. The monument is located in Bahu at the intersection of Jl. Monginsidi and Pierre Tendean. MUSEUM NEGERI PROPINSI SULAWESI UTARA. This Provincial Museum offers visitors and students alike, information about art, culture and history. It includes displays of the four ethnic groups inhabiting North Sulawesi, as well as the Batak Tribe (West Sumatra), Lombok, Bali, Central Sulawesi and Irian Jaya. Historical artifacts from the Dutch, Portuguese, Japanese, Chinese and Swedish can also be seen. It is located on Jl. W.R. Supratman, Manado. SECOND WORLD WAR MEMORIAL. A memorial to commemorate the destruction of Manado, which was heavily bombed in 1945, and to honor the victims of World War II. It is located in the center of Manado next to Gereja Sentrum (City Center Church). GOLF COURSE. Wenang Golf Course, a nine hole course, located on the road from Manado to the international airport covers an area of 1800 square meters. Clubs are available for hire as well as caddies.
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